But steel is much, much heavier than aluminum. Steel carabiners have been used for these purposes in the past. Carabiners that are in frequent contact with a rope (often a dirty rope) running through them will eventually have a groove worn into the basket where the rope slides through it (two grooves if it's used for a tube-style belay/rappel device). Karissa FryeĪluminum-from which most carabiners are made-is light and strong, but it is also soft. The carabiner that the Bulletproof 'draw replaced was severely grooved. The Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw is the first one clipped to the rope above the ground, near the lower right corner of the frame. Besides, there is also the consideration that Edelrid's Bulletproof carabiners have a wider application than the quickdraw I'm reviewing here the company also makes large, locking versions of the Bulletproof carabiners that can be used for belaying, rappelling or any other situations in which the carabiner will be subjected to heavy wear and tear.ĭerek Franz on Magnetar (5.13d), Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. Well, you'd be hard-pressed to find a top-notch alpinist who doesn't put in training time on bolted routes. And I know all about the problem with the string on open loops, thanx.The Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw- Wait! This review is for Alpinist, what the hell is this sport climbing equipment doing here? Very flexible and long enough to prevent some hideous rope drag.

But I have only ever seen them in either 12cm or 18cm, which is ok for some of your draws, but I prefer to have some in 25cm as well. I have 4 open loop style sewn runners in 30cm length that I have thrown a Petzl string on the rope end. I think BD Variwidth dogbone is probably the softest of the bunch, since the stitching ends sooner than the DMM/Petzl ones. The DMM's are not nearly as flexible as the old Petzl's but not wire-stiff like the new Petzl's either. While not totally preventable with any draw.the stiffness greatly increases the probability. They are so stiff I see them do all sorts of weird things.such as actually unclipping from a bolt as the leader went above it. Petzl vari-width were great for so many years.but they suck now. A draw can be both wide (so its durable and grabable) and flexible (so it actually works to reduce drag and does not promote 'lifting' of the draw as you move past it).

I don't get why this stiff draw trend continues for wide draws. DMM's are still a bit too stiff, but not like the Petzls. I preferred Petzl bones until they made them too stiff 2-versions ago.

Bulletproof at top left is for first bolt and Bulletproof on the bottom right are for the anchor.ĭnoB ekiM wrote: Love the DMM bones. Honestly, draws don't matter much, but I have geeked out perfecting my franken-draw mix for years. Edelrid Bulletproofs are great for reducing wear. I like the LiveWire, but admit that the Hotwire or Hoodwire as just as good. To fully geek out, I like having different color top biners on my different bone lengths.įor the rope end.I tried the Alpha but much prefer a wire gate after so many years of using them. The DMM's are not nearly as flexible as the old Petzl's but not wire-stiff like the new Petzl's either.Īny keylock biner is fine for the bolt end as they are all very similar.

Edelrid bulletproof quickdraw